If you want to be happy in a million ways....
Thankful for where I am and what I have this Christmas.
Sunday, December 26, 2010
Saturday, December 18, 2010
The Results Are In
As everyone knows, mind juices flow most freely in the wee hours of the night, which is why I have chosen to begin penning a comprehensive post-Ecuador reflection at approximately 12 am. In case you're wondering what's going on in this brain now that it's all over....
On the Reasons Behind It All
I decided to take a year off before college on my 8-hour flight home from Paraguay in the summer of 2009. I reflected on my experience there with an acquaintance of mine, Keah (who will probably never know that our conversation that day dramatically altered the course of my life), and basically explained that I had no idea it was possible to be so deeply affected by...anything. I told her that those 6 weeks in Paraguay had been by far the most difficult of my life; I so frequently had no idea what I was doing, had no idea what to say, and I was so ridiculously far out of my comfort zone that someone or something put me on the verge of tears nearly every day. But I connected with such emotional intensity to the community I worked in and I loved that I could feel that way while also making other people's lives a little better. I learned that, despite cultural barriers and differences, there is a sameness in all of us. I was aching for more. I knew I had acquired a very unique perspective on the world and had grown more in that month and a half than I had in my 17 years of life beforehand. When Keah said she couldn't wait to continue learning about the world but "maybe just not in a classroom," I was immediately sure that statement applied to me, too.
Keah introduced me to a powerful quote by Thoreau: "How vain it is to sit down to write when you have not stood up to live." After hearing those words and thinking about them for a while, I decided that I really wanted to see and feel things firsthand before I sat at a computer writing essays and making claims about topics that I didn't know intimately. I realized that I didn't have to go to college just because it was the next logical step. I chose the path less traveled. I was thirsty for the passion I had found in cross-cultural connection, in trying crazy new things, and in sharing my extremely good fortune with people who aren't necessarily blessed with it.
On Expectations
I chose to volunteer in Ecuador for much longer than I'd ever been away from home before, anticipating 4 months of real emotional investment on my part and serious cultural immersion. Selfishly, I chose a Spanish-speaking country in hopes of becoming truly fluent. I wanted to work with children, so I found a program that did so. Once my plans were confirmed, I looked forward to my trip with giddy anticipation. I left Paraguay with an empty feeling, in a way, and I was so thrilled to have the opportunity to fill my heart with that kind of passion for a second time. I was certainly not expecting the same things from Ecuador by any means, but was definitely expecting to feel extremely motivated and passionate about my work there. I was also expecting to meet and easily bond with people from other parts of the world that shared my values, and that excited me so much.
On Reality
But when have I ever made accurate conjectures about the future? Right. Never. So I get to Ecuador on August 14th and, yeah, I'm practicing my Spanish, within the first few days I've met people from 4 different continents, and have learned to (more or less) navigate a foreign city. The work was good. But the lifestyle that had been laid before me wasn't too engaging. In a journal entry on August 27th, not even two weeks into my stay, I mentioned that I was "already counting down the days."
I was wrong about a lot. Of course I was living in the city, so life was in many ways similar to my life here in the states. But I wasn't prepared to confront the organizational problems I knew existed in UBECI and wasn't sure I was ready to work there for 16 weeks. I felt pretty uncomfortable in Quito-- there were such frequent robberies, it was so dirty, people relieved themselves in the streets, men cat-called at me as I walked to work, whatever. I was spending a lot more money than I thought I would be. I was speaking so much English, and I really didn't want to be. Of course there were exceptions, but I did not feel very many strong connections to people.
On Fixing a Flaw...Painfully and By Accident
I can't possibly include or reflect on every great experience or every setback, but this one I deem important because of how much I discovered.
One of my biggest challenges in Ecuador, as ridiculous as this may sound, was peer pressure regarding alcohol. I'm not opposed as a general rule, and I'm not saying I never participated on my own volition. It just felt like there was nothing else to do, and for the first several weeks I was pretty sure I wouldn't have any friends if I didn't go out. It was embarrassing to be called lame or boring when I decided I didn't want to be at the clubs, so I just tagged along, and as such was throwing my money away for things I didn't care about in the least. Daily conversation on the bus or at lunch was about who was drunk last night, who made out with who, which alcohol gets the job done quicker. It was always the same. I was near people so often, yet I experienced a perpetual internal loneliness and nostalgia for old friends at home because I didn't understand why partying was the first thing on everyone's minds except for mine. I felt stupid for wanting to stay home and watch a movie with my host brother or cook a meal with my host mom and save my money for other things.
Ultimately, my issue with this peer pressure helped me understand and fix one of my greatest problems, in my opinion: I care (or, maybe, cared) so much about other people's perceptions of me. I had issues with this throughout middle school and high school, and I was severely aware of it, too, which meant that it affected me all the time. But once it started costing me upwards of $15 a night as well as pretty frequent tears of helplessness (sorry, I seriously don't mean for this to sound super dramatic), I finally figured out that I needed to stand up for myself. I needed to do what I wanted with my time and money. It's mine, not theirs. Not going out dancing one night doesn't make me a boring person or a loser, and I don't need to impress anybody.
I was able to begin rising above it all and ignoring people's comments about how I was "finally living a little! What a surprise!" when I did decide that I wanted to party. But above all, understanding the importance of living how I want to is helping me get over this self-conciousness in other aspects of life, like my physical appearance and my own world view, for example. It's refreshing-- impressing and pleasing people feels so much less important than it did even at the end of high school.
A Brief Reflection on the Outcome
So...simply put, I didn't love every minute. I knew I wouldn't, of course. But most everything else, I didn't know. I returned home maybe not as emotional as I did last summer, but certainly with a new independence, cultural sensitivity and a revamped set of values and priorities. I saw so much of Ecuador and learned unexpectedly from traveling within the country, too (like the bridge jumping in Baños epiphany I mentioned a few months ago, for example). Every little thing had a lesson hidden inside it, and I think I uncovered a lot of them.
I saw and worked with people in terrible situations who could just as well have been me. My desire to continue supporting global development has grown even stronger still.
I rediscovered the value I place in traveling. To truly understand the world, you must live in it, not just read about it. I will think about that as I live my life and save resources to do it. (Although I know there are many problems that must be addressed here, I am not ashamed of being an American citizen and I will not give up on changing my country's international reputation. I want to be a generous, sensitive, informed and proud U.S. "ambassador" many times in the future.)
I spent a lot of time thinking about home, which I didn't anticipate. I realize that I love my hometown more than I knew and that my friends here are more special than I ever could have imagined.
And, like I mentioned, I definitely solidified my stance in terms of substance "abuse." I came back to the United States more of a straightedge than I left because I don't want to need drugs and booze to enjoy life. And I don't care who knows it! I will shout it from the rooftops! ;) But, really, I will be going to college so much more confident in my beliefs, and I know that will help me focus on my personal goals there and in the long run. As juvenile and cheesy as it may seem, I learned very well that I don't need other people's approval to be who I want to be.
On The Present
In some ways, being home feels so normal. The only adjustment "issues" I've had are accidentally throwing toilet paper in the trash can and usually forgetting to put on my seatbelt. But sometimes it feels like I'm sleeping, and when I wake up again I'll be back in Quito. Obviously, the switch was abrupt; being there and not being there isn't a sliding scale. But arriving here and being thrown back into my "old" life so quickly has been only surreal and not overwhelming.
I have learned and gained more than I could have possibly hoped in the past four months--more than I can really articulate here--but certainly not in the areas of my life that I was anticipating when I left. I have heard so many people's stories--people from all different countries, classes, races and ages--and my curiosity is piqued and my eyes are truly open. It's such a wonderful feeling to realize how little you know.
I'm pretty sure that's my grand conclusion.
On the Reasons Behind It All
I decided to take a year off before college on my 8-hour flight home from Paraguay in the summer of 2009. I reflected on my experience there with an acquaintance of mine, Keah (who will probably never know that our conversation that day dramatically altered the course of my life), and basically explained that I had no idea it was possible to be so deeply affected by...anything. I told her that those 6 weeks in Paraguay had been by far the most difficult of my life; I so frequently had no idea what I was doing, had no idea what to say, and I was so ridiculously far out of my comfort zone that someone or something put me on the verge of tears nearly every day. But I connected with such emotional intensity to the community I worked in and I loved that I could feel that way while also making other people's lives a little better. I learned that, despite cultural barriers and differences, there is a sameness in all of us. I was aching for more. I knew I had acquired a very unique perspective on the world and had grown more in that month and a half than I had in my 17 years of life beforehand. When Keah said she couldn't wait to continue learning about the world but "maybe just not in a classroom," I was immediately sure that statement applied to me, too.
Keah introduced me to a powerful quote by Thoreau: "How vain it is to sit down to write when you have not stood up to live." After hearing those words and thinking about them for a while, I decided that I really wanted to see and feel things firsthand before I sat at a computer writing essays and making claims about topics that I didn't know intimately. I realized that I didn't have to go to college just because it was the next logical step. I chose the path less traveled. I was thirsty for the passion I had found in cross-cultural connection, in trying crazy new things, and in sharing my extremely good fortune with people who aren't necessarily blessed with it.
On Expectations
I chose to volunteer in Ecuador for much longer than I'd ever been away from home before, anticipating 4 months of real emotional investment on my part and serious cultural immersion. Selfishly, I chose a Spanish-speaking country in hopes of becoming truly fluent. I wanted to work with children, so I found a program that did so. Once my plans were confirmed, I looked forward to my trip with giddy anticipation. I left Paraguay with an empty feeling, in a way, and I was so thrilled to have the opportunity to fill my heart with that kind of passion for a second time. I was certainly not expecting the same things from Ecuador by any means, but was definitely expecting to feel extremely motivated and passionate about my work there. I was also expecting to meet and easily bond with people from other parts of the world that shared my values, and that excited me so much.
On Reality
But when have I ever made accurate conjectures about the future? Right. Never. So I get to Ecuador on August 14th and, yeah, I'm practicing my Spanish, within the first few days I've met people from 4 different continents, and have learned to (more or less) navigate a foreign city. The work was good. But the lifestyle that had been laid before me wasn't too engaging. In a journal entry on August 27th, not even two weeks into my stay, I mentioned that I was "already counting down the days."
I was wrong about a lot. Of course I was living in the city, so life was in many ways similar to my life here in the states. But I wasn't prepared to confront the organizational problems I knew existed in UBECI and wasn't sure I was ready to work there for 16 weeks. I felt pretty uncomfortable in Quito-- there were such frequent robberies, it was so dirty, people relieved themselves in the streets, men cat-called at me as I walked to work, whatever. I was spending a lot more money than I thought I would be. I was speaking so much English, and I really didn't want to be. Of course there were exceptions, but I did not feel very many strong connections to people.
On Fixing a Flaw...Painfully and By Accident
I can't possibly include or reflect on every great experience or every setback, but this one I deem important because of how much I discovered.
One of my biggest challenges in Ecuador, as ridiculous as this may sound, was peer pressure regarding alcohol. I'm not opposed as a general rule, and I'm not saying I never participated on my own volition. It just felt like there was nothing else to do, and for the first several weeks I was pretty sure I wouldn't have any friends if I didn't go out. It was embarrassing to be called lame or boring when I decided I didn't want to be at the clubs, so I just tagged along, and as such was throwing my money away for things I didn't care about in the least. Daily conversation on the bus or at lunch was about who was drunk last night, who made out with who, which alcohol gets the job done quicker. It was always the same. I was near people so often, yet I experienced a perpetual internal loneliness and nostalgia for old friends at home because I didn't understand why partying was the first thing on everyone's minds except for mine. I felt stupid for wanting to stay home and watch a movie with my host brother or cook a meal with my host mom and save my money for other things.
Ultimately, my issue with this peer pressure helped me understand and fix one of my greatest problems, in my opinion: I care (or, maybe, cared) so much about other people's perceptions of me. I had issues with this throughout middle school and high school, and I was severely aware of it, too, which meant that it affected me all the time. But once it started costing me upwards of $15 a night as well as pretty frequent tears of helplessness (sorry, I seriously don't mean for this to sound super dramatic), I finally figured out that I needed to stand up for myself. I needed to do what I wanted with my time and money. It's mine, not theirs. Not going out dancing one night doesn't make me a boring person or a loser, and I don't need to impress anybody.
I was able to begin rising above it all and ignoring people's comments about how I was "finally living a little! What a surprise!" when I did decide that I wanted to party. But above all, understanding the importance of living how I want to is helping me get over this self-conciousness in other aspects of life, like my physical appearance and my own world view, for example. It's refreshing-- impressing and pleasing people feels so much less important than it did even at the end of high school.
A Brief Reflection on the Outcome
So...simply put, I didn't love every minute. I knew I wouldn't, of course. But most everything else, I didn't know. I returned home maybe not as emotional as I did last summer, but certainly with a new independence, cultural sensitivity and a revamped set of values and priorities. I saw so much of Ecuador and learned unexpectedly from traveling within the country, too (like the bridge jumping in Baños epiphany I mentioned a few months ago, for example). Every little thing had a lesson hidden inside it, and I think I uncovered a lot of them.
I saw and worked with people in terrible situations who could just as well have been me. My desire to continue supporting global development has grown even stronger still.
I rediscovered the value I place in traveling. To truly understand the world, you must live in it, not just read about it. I will think about that as I live my life and save resources to do it. (Although I know there are many problems that must be addressed here, I am not ashamed of being an American citizen and I will not give up on changing my country's international reputation. I want to be a generous, sensitive, informed and proud U.S. "ambassador" many times in the future.)
I spent a lot of time thinking about home, which I didn't anticipate. I realize that I love my hometown more than I knew and that my friends here are more special than I ever could have imagined.
And, like I mentioned, I definitely solidified my stance in terms of substance "abuse." I came back to the United States more of a straightedge than I left because I don't want to need drugs and booze to enjoy life. And I don't care who knows it! I will shout it from the rooftops! ;) But, really, I will be going to college so much more confident in my beliefs, and I know that will help me focus on my personal goals there and in the long run. As juvenile and cheesy as it may seem, I learned very well that I don't need other people's approval to be who I want to be.
On The Present
In some ways, being home feels so normal. The only adjustment "issues" I've had are accidentally throwing toilet paper in the trash can and usually forgetting to put on my seatbelt. But sometimes it feels like I'm sleeping, and when I wake up again I'll be back in Quito. Obviously, the switch was abrupt; being there and not being there isn't a sliding scale. But arriving here and being thrown back into my "old" life so quickly has been only surreal and not overwhelming.
I have learned and gained more than I could have possibly hoped in the past four months--more than I can really articulate here--but certainly not in the areas of my life that I was anticipating when I left. I have heard so many people's stories--people from all different countries, classes, races and ages--and my curiosity is piqued and my eyes are truly open. It's such a wonderful feeling to realize how little you know.
I'm pretty sure that's my grand conclusion.
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Some Truths
1. The jungle was really great. And REALLY hot.
2. I have no idea where my host mom is, I have not spoken to my host brothers all day-- it feels very awkward given the circumstances.
3. I am so, so excited to get back to the United States. I really miss a lot of things.
4. Today is really normal. I do not feel sad. I do not feel like I am leaving this place in less than 24 hours and possibly not returning for the rest of my life (you never know), but that is what´s happening.
All of this, to me, feels like a problem. Like I am ungrateful for the truly incredible experiences I´ve had here. But at this point, I´m not even looking back. I don´t really understand.
Adios, Ecuador...?!
2. I have no idea where my host mom is, I have not spoken to my host brothers all day-- it feels very awkward given the circumstances.
3. I am so, so excited to get back to the United States. I really miss a lot of things.
4. Today is really normal. I do not feel sad. I do not feel like I am leaving this place in less than 24 hours and possibly not returning for the rest of my life (you never know), but that is what´s happening.
All of this, to me, feels like a problem. Like I am ungrateful for the truly incredible experiences I´ve had here. But at this point, I´m not even looking back. I don´t really understand.
Adios, Ecuador...?!
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Work and Travels - FOTOS y más!
Working chronologically: here are some long overdue photos of my last work week.
Danny and the kids at Villa Flora :).
Volunteers and kids being silly.
With my best friends ever, Carolina and Angelita.
And on Saturday night, Alex and I left for Cuenca. It´s much warmer, quieter, cleaner and prettier than Quito. There is architecture like this on every corner:
We hung around Sunday and Monday, and saw a billion different museums and churches. While Cuenca is beautiful, it is a little lacking in the activities department, but we still found ways to entertain ourselves (I swear I´m not talking about go-carts or going on a search for the tackiest decoration in Cuenca´s mall).
Alex left Monday night, leaving me all by my lonesome...my first time ever traveling alone! On Tuesday I decided to go to Ingapirca, an ancient ruins site of the Incas and Cañares. I chose the cheap, ghetto route-- aka turned a $40, 45-minute trip by taxi into a $4, 3-hour trip by several busses. I anticipated getting very lost, but, miraculously, I didn´t.
After a tour of the ruins, my guide asked me if I had some free time and would like to walk a little further to see "the face of the devil." I said of course, but as we walked I seriously considered the possibility of him wanting to rape me or something crazy. We did nearly get eaten by a dog on the way, but he actually did show me the face of the devil and it was pretty impressive! No violation involved.
Today I traveled to Cajas National Park, about a half-hour outside of Cuenca. There there are allegedly 232 lagoons. I only saw one, and did about an hour-long hike around it. It really was gorgeous and the weather was great.
One of the guys who works at the desk of my hostel actually drove me there this morning. Upon saying yes to his offer, I seriously considered the fact that I might die/be violated, but again, I survived without a scratch. So...the theme of the week is paranoia.
Although I am really excited to have seen Ingapirca and Cajas, I have learned that traveling with no one is a little depressing. When I woke up on Tuesday morning I barely wanted to get out of bed. I felt super alone--it was so not what I was expecting. Yesterday was the first time I had ever eaten at a restaurant alone, and it was such a strange feeling. I love the idea in theory of being able to decide everything on my own--where to go, when to go, when to eat, what to eat, etc.--but I think the negatives of not having travel buddies outweigh the positives for me, at least. But! It´s only 3 days and it´s been an interesting experience. I am pretty excited to go back to Quito...certainly a first!
Danny and the kids at Villa Flora :).
Volunteers and kids being silly.
With my best friends ever, Carolina and Angelita.
And on Saturday night, Alex and I left for Cuenca. It´s much warmer, quieter, cleaner and prettier than Quito. There is architecture like this on every corner:
We hung around Sunday and Monday, and saw a billion different museums and churches. While Cuenca is beautiful, it is a little lacking in the activities department, but we still found ways to entertain ourselves (I swear I´m not talking about go-carts or going on a search for the tackiest decoration in Cuenca´s mall).
Alex left Monday night, leaving me all by my lonesome...my first time ever traveling alone! On Tuesday I decided to go to Ingapirca, an ancient ruins site of the Incas and Cañares. I chose the cheap, ghetto route-- aka turned a $40, 45-minute trip by taxi into a $4, 3-hour trip by several busses. I anticipated getting very lost, but, miraculously, I didn´t.
After a tour of the ruins, my guide asked me if I had some free time and would like to walk a little further to see "the face of the devil." I said of course, but as we walked I seriously considered the possibility of him wanting to rape me or something crazy. We did nearly get eaten by a dog on the way, but he actually did show me the face of the devil and it was pretty impressive! No violation involved.
Today I traveled to Cajas National Park, about a half-hour outside of Cuenca. There there are allegedly 232 lagoons. I only saw one, and did about an hour-long hike around it. It really was gorgeous and the weather was great.
One of the guys who works at the desk of my hostel actually drove me there this morning. Upon saying yes to his offer, I seriously considered the fact that I might die/be violated, but again, I survived without a scratch. So...the theme of the week is paranoia.
Although I am really excited to have seen Ingapirca and Cajas, I have learned that traveling with no one is a little depressing. When I woke up on Tuesday morning I barely wanted to get out of bed. I felt super alone--it was so not what I was expecting. Yesterday was the first time I had ever eaten at a restaurant alone, and it was such a strange feeling. I love the idea in theory of being able to decide everything on my own--where to go, when to go, when to eat, what to eat, etc.--but I think the negatives of not having travel buddies outweigh the positives for me, at least. But! It´s only 3 days and it´s been an interesting experience. I am pretty excited to go back to Quito...certainly a first!
Friday, December 3, 2010
The End...But Not Really.
It´s December 3rd, my last day of work at UBECI, the date that has briefly crossed my mind almost every day since I arrived, and it feels like any other Friday. Tonight is my last night with my host family (other than the 15th, the day before my flight), and I have not begun packing and probably won´t really be spending much time with them. My Ecua-life has become so second nature that it seems like today could not possibly be happening. Leaving is like abandoning what I´ve created for myself here (or, probably better said, what has been created for me by outside forces). I can´t exactly fathom an end.
I´m not saying I can´t fathom it because I don´t want to leave. Truth: I want to be home so badly. The end just doesn´t feel real right now! But I guess that´s because it isn´t really here yet....
Tomorrow night I leave for my 11-day Ecua-adventure. On the itinerary: Cuenca, a smaller, more historical city in the south; some other stuff in the middle that will hopefully decide itself so that I don´t have to, and a 4-day excursion to Cuyabeno (the REAL jungle!).
Stay posted for pictures of my final work week and travels. :)
I´m not saying I can´t fathom it because I don´t want to leave. Truth: I want to be home so badly. The end just doesn´t feel real right now! But I guess that´s because it isn´t really here yet....
Tomorrow night I leave for my 11-day Ecua-adventure. On the itinerary: Cuenca, a smaller, more historical city in the south; some other stuff in the middle that will hopefully decide itself so that I don´t have to, and a 4-day excursion to Cuyabeno (the REAL jungle!).
Stay posted for pictures of my final work week and travels. :)
Friday, November 26, 2010
A Taste of America
Thanksgiving in Ecuador, which I thought might make me feel a bit lonely and homesick, turned out to be one of the happiest nights I´ve spent in this country. Almost all of the volunteers got together with Byron and Monica--UBECI´s founders and leaders--at their house for an elaborate dinner prepared in part by all of us. Before digging into a feast of pumpkin soup, two types of meat, an incredible homemade stuffing, fresh mashed potatoes, bowls of cooked veggies, delicious pasta and fruit salads, the ever-popular panadería bread of Ecuador, two different kinds of pies, and even cranberry sauce, we all went around the table and talked about things we´re thankful for. Even the Ecuadorians, English and Austrian at the table took part. Although many of us said a lot of the same things, usually some modified version of "I´m so thankful to be here experiencing the Ecuadorian culture and for all of us being together," the time felt so special and it was really the closest I had ever felt to the rest of the volunteers. It is such a wonderful thing to listen to people 100% and to recieve that genuine attention in return when it´s your turn to speak. As yesterday was the first day of warm weather after what feels like weeks of rain, my Austrian friend said "I am so thankful for the sun."
This picture definitely doesn´t do our meal justice--worthy of royalty, in my opinion--but here we are before the first course :). (About an hour later, I would literally feel more full than I ever had in my entire life....)
On a somewhat bittersweet note, I offically have one work week left with UBECI--after that, it´s about a week and a half of traveling and then boarding the plane. I´m so torn right now--it´s almost impossible for me to imagine leaving the kids and the staff of UBECI and most especially my host family. I love practicing Spanish, I love traveling and I have learned and experienced so many new things in this country that I couldn´t even begin to explain how much I feel like I´ve been changed for the better. On the other hand, I truly cannot wait to be home on December 16th. Any sounds or decorations or activities that are in any way Christmas related make me long so much for my extended family get-togethers, caroling in my neighborhood, maybe seeing snow, and most definitely seeing my best friends again. I´ve been subconciously counting down the days for a while.
It hasn´t quite hit me yet how soon I won´t be here anymore, but I am trying to mentally prepare myself for some of the craziest transitions and hardest goodbyes of my life so far in the next few weeks. I do remember how jumbled and emotional I felt last summer when I came home from Paraguay...and I guess there´s no true preparation for that. But, as much as I´ll miss Ecuador, I really can´t express how excited I am to see Arlington again.
So that´s that....
PS. I will FINALLY have some pictures of the incredible kids of UBECI next week--I can take my camera to the markets my last few days! I am so excited to share with everyone the most IMPORTANT thing I´ve been doing for the last 3 1/2 months. Stay tuned ;).
This picture definitely doesn´t do our meal justice--worthy of royalty, in my opinion--but here we are before the first course :). (About an hour later, I would literally feel more full than I ever had in my entire life....)
On a somewhat bittersweet note, I offically have one work week left with UBECI--after that, it´s about a week and a half of traveling and then boarding the plane. I´m so torn right now--it´s almost impossible for me to imagine leaving the kids and the staff of UBECI and most especially my host family. I love practicing Spanish, I love traveling and I have learned and experienced so many new things in this country that I couldn´t even begin to explain how much I feel like I´ve been changed for the better. On the other hand, I truly cannot wait to be home on December 16th. Any sounds or decorations or activities that are in any way Christmas related make me long so much for my extended family get-togethers, caroling in my neighborhood, maybe seeing snow, and most definitely seeing my best friends again. I´ve been subconciously counting down the days for a while.
It hasn´t quite hit me yet how soon I won´t be here anymore, but I am trying to mentally prepare myself for some of the craziest transitions and hardest goodbyes of my life so far in the next few weeks. I do remember how jumbled and emotional I felt last summer when I came home from Paraguay...and I guess there´s no true preparation for that. But, as much as I´ll miss Ecuador, I really can´t express how excited I am to see Arlington again.
So that´s that....
PS. I will FINALLY have some pictures of the incredible kids of UBECI next week--I can take my camera to the markets my last few days! I am so excited to share with everyone the most IMPORTANT thing I´ve been doing for the last 3 1/2 months. Stay tuned ;).
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Fútbol, Music and So Much Rain
I thought it was worth mentioning that on Wednesday I went to my first ever soccer game: Quito´s LIGA vs. some dumb team from Argentina in the quarterfinals of the South American Cup! Let me tell you, these people are CRAZY about their fútbol. When LIGA came out onto the field, random people in the stands were setting off fireworks. There were guard dogs between the tiny section designated for the opposing team and Quiteño LIGA fans. The other team got rolls and rolls and rolls of toilet paper (THAT´S why there´s never any in the bathrooms, I thought). Also, I can´t quite imagine how I´d feel if tens of thousands of people screamed "HIJO DE PUTA" (that´d be "son of a bitch") in unison at the sound of my name. Sorry, fútbol players of Argentina. Anyway, with our gringo blessing, LIGA dominated, so we´ll also be seeing the semifinals live in a few days!
My (relatively new) friend Alex, another gap year kid from Maryland, and I have been getting together to sing and play guitar a lot recently-- we´re covering a few boy-girl duets, and I actually can feel my mood improving because before a few weeks ago, I hadn´t really sung at all. We managed to pull ourselves together for a "concert" for Alex´s host mom´s birthday on Thursday...and even though some of the songs were pretty rough, I had the best time! It was so liberating to really sing. I´m really exciting for these jam sessions to continue, hopefully until I leave. Alex has even taught me three chords on the guitar-- that´s three more than I knew two weeks ago...!
In other news, rain has been a virtually constant presence in my life since around 3 pm Saturday afternoon. I have never felt the need to use the phrase "soaked to the bone" in a literal sense, but this week just might tip me over the edge. I really don´t think I´ve ever experienced anything like it! But the weather hasn´t stopped us-- I and my friend Anna took a trip to the Otavalo artisan market on Saturday (my final touristy souvenir shopping opportunity, I think) and a bunch of us went to QuitoFest, an annual free music concert, on Sunday. We became totally drenched both days but had good times anyway. Still hoping this rain will not continue for the rest of my time in the Quito (only 2 weeks and 5 days, if my plans stay as they are now! WHOA.)....
My (relatively new) friend Alex, another gap year kid from Maryland, and I have been getting together to sing and play guitar a lot recently-- we´re covering a few boy-girl duets, and I actually can feel my mood improving because before a few weeks ago, I hadn´t really sung at all. We managed to pull ourselves together for a "concert" for Alex´s host mom´s birthday on Thursday...and even though some of the songs were pretty rough, I had the best time! It was so liberating to really sing. I´m really exciting for these jam sessions to continue, hopefully until I leave. Alex has even taught me three chords on the guitar-- that´s three more than I knew two weeks ago...!
In other news, rain has been a virtually constant presence in my life since around 3 pm Saturday afternoon. I have never felt the need to use the phrase "soaked to the bone" in a literal sense, but this week just might tip me over the edge. I really don´t think I´ve ever experienced anything like it! But the weather hasn´t stopped us-- I and my friend Anna took a trip to the Otavalo artisan market on Saturday (my final touristy souvenir shopping opportunity, I think) and a bunch of us went to QuitoFest, an annual free music concert, on Sunday. We became totally drenched both days but had good times anyway. Still hoping this rain will not continue for the rest of my time in the Quito (only 2 weeks and 5 days, if my plans stay as they are now! WHOA.)....
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
November Nonsense
A rundown of all of the exciting things that have happened so far this month:
On the 5th, our superiors threw a Halloween party, although the holiday is not actually celebrated in this country. My host mom was kind enough to provide me with a costume. I have no idea what I was, but I liked it! Here I am...dressed up as something...with my friend Natasha:
On November 6th and 7th, my friends Karl and Alex and I stayed in the town of Mindo, famous for its butterfly gardens and ziplining!
Here I am, being the scaredest I have ever been in my entire life....
Alex, me, and some ginormous butterflies.
There were also hummingbirds everywhere! Lots of bird feeders all around town for tourists´ viewing pleasure. They are so tiny and move SO quickly! I don´t think I had ever seen a hummingbird in real life before!
As for work, I have basically assumed the job of resident market homework support girl for the rest of my time here. It is probably the most frustrating task I have taken on in my entire life-- it is hard to break the culture barrier in terms of the education system, sometimes the language, the sheer absurdity of most assignments, that I don´t know a lot of these kids very well, and also that they just don´t know where to begin most of the time. I am learning to possess an incredible patience, which is a very welcomed lesson, and I feel more prepared for the challenge every day.
On the 5th, our superiors threw a Halloween party, although the holiday is not actually celebrated in this country. My host mom was kind enough to provide me with a costume. I have no idea what I was, but I liked it! Here I am...dressed up as something...with my friend Natasha:
On November 6th and 7th, my friends Karl and Alex and I stayed in the town of Mindo, famous for its butterfly gardens and ziplining!
Here I am, being the scaredest I have ever been in my entire life....
Alex, me, and some ginormous butterflies.
There were also hummingbirds everywhere! Lots of bird feeders all around town for tourists´ viewing pleasure. They are so tiny and move SO quickly! I don´t think I had ever seen a hummingbird in real life before!
As for work, I have basically assumed the job of resident market homework support girl for the rest of my time here. It is probably the most frustrating task I have taken on in my entire life-- it is hard to break the culture barrier in terms of the education system, sometimes the language, the sheer absurdity of most assignments, that I don´t know a lot of these kids very well, and also that they just don´t know where to begin most of the time. I am learning to possess an incredible patience, which is a very welcomed lesson, and I feel more prepared for the challenge every day.
Monday, November 1, 2010
¡Feriado!
After a seriously not-so-stellar week (several days of silence due to illness, 3 trips to the immigraton office, a new Visa that I STILL have to fix, working in the markets very little, some seriously ridiculous UBECI drama...et cetera?), I was super excited to celebrate the Ecuadorian holiday this weekend with one of my many families. Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead--kind of the Latin American equivalent of Halloween, but a little more symbolic in some countries) is this Tuesday, and basically the entire country had been in feriado mode since Friday night and will be until Wednesday.
My host mom, Diego (my older host brother) and I went down to the valley Tumbaco, where my host mom´s parents live, for a big family reunion on Saturday morning. The Ecuadorian tradition on Dia de los Muertos is to eat guaguas de pan, or bread in the shape of babies, with colada morada, a hot drink made of blueberries, strawberries, pineapple, and other fruits. In some areas of the country (indigenous-populated places, I imagine), locals take these foods to the grave to eat with their deceased family members. However, my family is not that into the soulsy part of the holiday and prefers to just take part in the commercial aspect :). So, after an extremely hearty lunch on Saturday afternoon, all of the cousins and aunts and uncles and grandparents took a trip to the grocery store to buy an ungodly amount of flour, sugar, leavening, salt, fruit, etc. to make enough guaguas de pan and colada morada for a small army.
After many hours of labor--and a couple mess-ups along the way--we had approximately 2348579346 pieces of bread (though not all babies) and a giant cauldron of delicious fruit juice.
My "host aunt" and me kneading dough....
So...I had been told that the specialty of the house was empanadas. I had not been told that they had never actually made bread in the oven before. It took a while to perfect. But the seemingly burnt pieces were still delicious on the inside!
It got better and better every time!
My very own authentic guagua (okay, so it´s slightly burnt...and the eyes and buttons fell off in the baking process) and colada morada.
We spent the night in Tumbaco, and filled up (again) the next morning on the treats we had made the night before. I didn´t eat again until 8 pm that evening.
I had a super great time with everyone this weekend. But being with "my" entire extended Ecuadorian family made me really miss my actual extended family. It´s the "familial" feeling in general, I guess...being comfortable with friends, being in my own house, whatever. I have a while left here, but I really am looking forward to going home at this point. I don´t think that´s a good thing...and I´m hoping it´s just because I´ve had a lot of time to myself in the past several days. I guess I need to keep busy.
My host mom, Diego (my older host brother) and I went down to the valley Tumbaco, where my host mom´s parents live, for a big family reunion on Saturday morning. The Ecuadorian tradition on Dia de los Muertos is to eat guaguas de pan, or bread in the shape of babies, with colada morada, a hot drink made of blueberries, strawberries, pineapple, and other fruits. In some areas of the country (indigenous-populated places, I imagine), locals take these foods to the grave to eat with their deceased family members. However, my family is not that into the soulsy part of the holiday and prefers to just take part in the commercial aspect :). So, after an extremely hearty lunch on Saturday afternoon, all of the cousins and aunts and uncles and grandparents took a trip to the grocery store to buy an ungodly amount of flour, sugar, leavening, salt, fruit, etc. to make enough guaguas de pan and colada morada for a small army.
After many hours of labor--and a couple mess-ups along the way--we had approximately 2348579346 pieces of bread (though not all babies) and a giant cauldron of delicious fruit juice.
My "host aunt" and me kneading dough....
So...I had been told that the specialty of the house was empanadas. I had not been told that they had never actually made bread in the oven before. It took a while to perfect. But the seemingly burnt pieces were still delicious on the inside!
It got better and better every time!
My very own authentic guagua (okay, so it´s slightly burnt...and the eyes and buttons fell off in the baking process) and colada morada.
We spent the night in Tumbaco, and filled up (again) the next morning on the treats we had made the night before. I didn´t eat again until 8 pm that evening.
I had a super great time with everyone this weekend. But being with "my" entire extended Ecuadorian family made me really miss my actual extended family. It´s the "familial" feeling in general, I guess...being comfortable with friends, being in my own house, whatever. I have a while left here, but I really am looking forward to going home at this point. I don´t think that´s a good thing...and I´m hoping it´s just because I´ve had a lot of time to myself in the past several days. I guess I need to keep busy.
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
Volcanoes and Visas and Voices...or Not...
This Sunday, 6 of us gringos took a really fantastic trip to Quilotoa, a former volcano about 2 hours south of Quito. Although I have been with many of the volunteers for weeks now, it was still a super exciting and necessary bonding experience. We climbed (really, slid) down into the crater, stopping about every minute to look at the breathtaking view below us and kicking up clouds of dust all the way (my shirt, pants and face were about the color of the ground by the time we arrived). We kayaked in the crater´s lake, where the weather and water were perfect, and then reluctantly climbed back up (to 12,000 feet!). Opting to walk instead of ride a mule up the mountain may not have been the greatest decision at that altitude, but I was certainly proud when we finally got back to the top! We were all completely pooped by the end of the day, and I went right to sleep when I got home.
Here we are, halfway down the crater! (Photo by Ricardo Robledo.)
I then woke up at the butt crack of dawn on Monday morning to work on extending my Visa...so that I´m not deported before the end of my Ecua-adventure. After collecting everything I needed this weekend (a copy of my passport and my visa, a bank statement, proof of my flight out of the country, passport pictures, a written request to the ministry, an extension application, $30, AND the very specifically requested manila folder) I arrived at the immigration office at 8 am and was not set free until after 11:30! I have also been asked to come back again this week to pay the rest of the small fortune required for a 45-day extension (about 7x more than the $30 down payment, in case you were curious). Pretty sure that I will always plan around this Visa situation when I leave the United States in the future...either by staying less time or hopping from country to country. I really can´t even begin to imagine how the US might be about these things if countries in South America are this difficult!
I spent the rest of the day with other volunteers, and we all went up to the Panecillo where it poured and hailed on us, per usual in Quito, around 3 pm. My voice had been getting progressively raspier througout the day, which I probably should have seen as a hint to go home and not be outside in the rain. By the time I saw my host family at about 8 pm last night, I was a mute. Literally. My host mom created an Ecua-remedy for my illness, consisting of lime, cinnamon, a spoonful of honey, and boiled Coca-Cola. I may as well have been drinking opaque bile, but I had to oblige my host mother who said that I would wake up cured in the morning. Not so--I can´t make a sound! Therefore, I have taken my first sick day from work. Luckily, my friend Alex and I bought a bunch of movies last night just before going home ($1.25 each...and they actually function!), so I watched "Out of Africa" and will probably finish "El Secreto de sus Ojos" before the day is over. It´s so depressing to be such a bum! This has never really happened to me before, so I have no idea how long it will take for me to talk like a normal person again. Hopefully I will be a functioning human being again very soon!
Here we are, halfway down the crater! (Photo by Ricardo Robledo.)
I then woke up at the butt crack of dawn on Monday morning to work on extending my Visa...so that I´m not deported before the end of my Ecua-adventure. After collecting everything I needed this weekend (a copy of my passport and my visa, a bank statement, proof of my flight out of the country, passport pictures, a written request to the ministry, an extension application, $30, AND the very specifically requested manila folder) I arrived at the immigration office at 8 am and was not set free until after 11:30! I have also been asked to come back again this week to pay the rest of the small fortune required for a 45-day extension (about 7x more than the $30 down payment, in case you were curious). Pretty sure that I will always plan around this Visa situation when I leave the United States in the future...either by staying less time or hopping from country to country. I really can´t even begin to imagine how the US might be about these things if countries in South America are this difficult!
I spent the rest of the day with other volunteers, and we all went up to the Panecillo where it poured and hailed on us, per usual in Quito, around 3 pm. My voice had been getting progressively raspier througout the day, which I probably should have seen as a hint to go home and not be outside in the rain. By the time I saw my host family at about 8 pm last night, I was a mute. Literally. My host mom created an Ecua-remedy for my illness, consisting of lime, cinnamon, a spoonful of honey, and boiled Coca-Cola. I may as well have been drinking opaque bile, but I had to oblige my host mother who said that I would wake up cured in the morning. Not so--I can´t make a sound! Therefore, I have taken my first sick day from work. Luckily, my friend Alex and I bought a bunch of movies last night just before going home ($1.25 each...and they actually function!), so I watched "Out of Africa" and will probably finish "El Secreto de sus Ojos" before the day is over. It´s so depressing to be such a bum! This has never really happened to me before, so I have no idea how long it will take for me to talk like a normal person again. Hopefully I will be a functioning human being again very soon!
Friday, October 22, 2010
We Cannot Direct the Wind....
Each day, the UBECI staff, my fellow volunteers and I work at a market in morning, take a break for a leisurely lunch, and then return to the markets in the afternoon. Today was obviously no different--but after we finished eating, I and my friends found ourselves exceptionally bored. It was a little before 1 pm and we weren´t due to start work again until 2, so we decided to walk through the streets of the city--pretty quickly, seemingly with purpose, I noticed--but we really had no idea where we were going. At about 1:30, we decided to head up to the market a little early, without the staff. Danny, our "boss," was working in an internet cafe, so we stopped in and told him where we were going. He smiled and just told us to be careful, so we made our way back up the hill to our work area.
Every day, we put up a tent in the area where we work. It is supposed to simulate a classroom, more or less, and is a tiny part of the scholarization process that children that come to UBECI activities undergo. Focus. Calm down. You are in a learning space, it subconciously tells these superbly energetic youth. Putting up the tent is actually a surprisingly arduous task...so my friends and I decided that we would surprise Danny and the rest of the staff by having everything ready to go when they arrived!
Somehow, with kids climbing all over us and putting tent pieces wherever they thought correct, we managed to get this ghetto thing standing. We were stupidly proud, really, that we had gotten everything ready for the kids earlier than usual and that Danny wouldn´t have to do any preparation when he arrived. Lisa and I went to the other side of the market to fill a jug with water for the kids to wash their hands--yet another daily chore that the staff wouldn´t have to do! We returned and got the hand washing station ready.
Just as I bent down to help Lisa pour our hand-washing water, I heard dozens of children--and volunteers--screaming behind me. I turned around quickly--the tent was nowhere in my line of vision, but everyone was pointing upwards....
And there it was--literally 30 feet in the air, if not higher--half of a tent, flying through the sky! Looking at it, I felt like I was in the middle of a tornado. One of the legs caught on to a wire and dangled there for a few long seconds, probably some of the scariest of my life. I knew it would inevitably come crashing down, 28 metal tubes and all--but where? On who?! Could we possibly be responsible for some serious injury today? My heart was literally doing somersaults. It was totally our fault, too, if not mine alone, as I was the volunteer with the most seniority. It really hadn´t been windy, so I had completly forgotten to tie the tent to anything!
The tent did come down from the sky very soon after. The metal rods of the tent crashed against the tin rooves of the marketplace. Pieces of the tent went EVERYWHERE. It was one of the most awkward and embarrassing experiences of my life, but none of us could stop laughing. We stood there, with all of the kids, in complete shock. Once we snapped out of it and realized no one had been hurt, we ran down to where the tent had landed to try to get the pieces together, still giggling out of complete embarrassment. We managed to find 27 of the 28 metal rods, rendering the tent completely useless in 10 seconds.
None of the staff was openly upset or angry, but it was certainly embarrassing for all of us! We explained to Danny and the others how proud we were to have had everything done before 2, and they just laughed. We are probably going to pool our money and buy a new tent for UBECI. But I´m just glad that it´s all over, and that the only damage done at the scene was to one market roof made of tarp-- one that costs $4.85 to replace.
Every day, we put up a tent in the area where we work. It is supposed to simulate a classroom, more or less, and is a tiny part of the scholarization process that children that come to UBECI activities undergo. Focus. Calm down. You are in a learning space, it subconciously tells these superbly energetic youth. Putting up the tent is actually a surprisingly arduous task...so my friends and I decided that we would surprise Danny and the rest of the staff by having everything ready to go when they arrived!
Somehow, with kids climbing all over us and putting tent pieces wherever they thought correct, we managed to get this ghetto thing standing. We were stupidly proud, really, that we had gotten everything ready for the kids earlier than usual and that Danny wouldn´t have to do any preparation when he arrived. Lisa and I went to the other side of the market to fill a jug with water for the kids to wash their hands--yet another daily chore that the staff wouldn´t have to do! We returned and got the hand washing station ready.
Just as I bent down to help Lisa pour our hand-washing water, I heard dozens of children--and volunteers--screaming behind me. I turned around quickly--the tent was nowhere in my line of vision, but everyone was pointing upwards....
And there it was--literally 30 feet in the air, if not higher--half of a tent, flying through the sky! Looking at it, I felt like I was in the middle of a tornado. One of the legs caught on to a wire and dangled there for a few long seconds, probably some of the scariest of my life. I knew it would inevitably come crashing down, 28 metal tubes and all--but where? On who?! Could we possibly be responsible for some serious injury today? My heart was literally doing somersaults. It was totally our fault, too, if not mine alone, as I was the volunteer with the most seniority. It really hadn´t been windy, so I had completly forgotten to tie the tent to anything!
The tent did come down from the sky very soon after. The metal rods of the tent crashed against the tin rooves of the marketplace. Pieces of the tent went EVERYWHERE. It was one of the most awkward and embarrassing experiences of my life, but none of us could stop laughing. We stood there, with all of the kids, in complete shock. Once we snapped out of it and realized no one had been hurt, we ran down to where the tent had landed to try to get the pieces together, still giggling out of complete embarrassment. We managed to find 27 of the 28 metal rods, rendering the tent completely useless in 10 seconds.
None of the staff was openly upset or angry, but it was certainly embarrassing for all of us! We explained to Danny and the others how proud we were to have had everything done before 2, and they just laughed. We are probably going to pool our money and buy a new tent for UBECI. But I´m just glad that it´s all over, and that the only damage done at the scene was to one market roof made of tarp-- one that costs $4.85 to replace.
Monday, October 18, 2010
Give `em a Break
As much as I adore our Ecuadorian kids--it really makes me happy to play, sing, talk, and paint with them at the markets every day--I am always so pleased when the weekend comes, excited for a chance to get away from all the dirt and grime, the little noses dripping with snot, the blasting reggaeton that makes your ears bleed, the vendors (adults and children alike) giving you sad looks that make it impossible not to pity them with every ounce of your being, the hour-long rides on stuffy busses to get where we need to go. I always think, phew, I´m so ready to not have to wake up at 7:30 am, to not have children hanging on my limbs...and to be CLEAN for a change! It´s not like I feel like I "deserve" it after a week of hard work or anything. I don´t. Nonetheless, it feels good.
I can escape from the little things in Quito that make me uncomfortable. From work, I can escape on the weekends. I can even leave the city if I want to and go somewhere I can actually breathe in without inhaling...opaqueness. I depart from this country in less than two months and return to one of the most well-off places on the planet where I will experience virtually complete comfort again. There will always be toilet paper and soap in the bathroom, and there will always be clean drinking water when I´m thirsty. I can wake up in the morning and put on a clean shirt that doesn´t have any holes. I never had to do my homework outside, on the floor, amongst rotten fruit or peels. Little luxuries that I usually take for granted--even here, I guess, with my own host family--are things that these 3-to-12-year-olds, evidently, rarely have access to. It seems like they never have even a short break from this unfortunate situation into which they were born. I´ve never had to do anything to make sure my family´s ends meet.
I wish I could do more than I do now. I always try remind myself that grassroots movements like this take decades and decades to truly make change ("It isn´t a sprint, it´s a marathon!"), but it´s these specific little children that I have come to love and care about. My heart aches for them. If someone were to tell me that last year, 20% of kids in Quito worked and this year it´s only 18%, that wouldn´t mean anything to me at this moment. Despite whatever development work that organizations like UBECI do, these kids--Camila, Evelyn, Oscar, Edwin, Erika, Lesly, Anahi, Melany, Viviana, and dozens more--are growing up right now with windburned faces and stuffy noses and untreated injuries...and selling crap alone in the markets, on busses, or in the streets. They don´t stop for weekends and can´t leave on December 16th. I think about that and really feel powerless.
I can escape from the little things in Quito that make me uncomfortable. From work, I can escape on the weekends. I can even leave the city if I want to and go somewhere I can actually breathe in without inhaling...opaqueness. I depart from this country in less than two months and return to one of the most well-off places on the planet where I will experience virtually complete comfort again. There will always be toilet paper and soap in the bathroom, and there will always be clean drinking water when I´m thirsty. I can wake up in the morning and put on a clean shirt that doesn´t have any holes. I never had to do my homework outside, on the floor, amongst rotten fruit or peels. Little luxuries that I usually take for granted--even here, I guess, with my own host family--are things that these 3-to-12-year-olds, evidently, rarely have access to. It seems like they never have even a short break from this unfortunate situation into which they were born. I´ve never had to do anything to make sure my family´s ends meet.
I wish I could do more than I do now. I always try remind myself that grassroots movements like this take decades and decades to truly make change ("It isn´t a sprint, it´s a marathon!"), but it´s these specific little children that I have come to love and care about. My heart aches for them. If someone were to tell me that last year, 20% of kids in Quito worked and this year it´s only 18%, that wouldn´t mean anything to me at this moment. Despite whatever development work that organizations like UBECI do, these kids--Camila, Evelyn, Oscar, Edwin, Erika, Lesly, Anahi, Melany, Viviana, and dozens more--are growing up right now with windburned faces and stuffy noses and untreated injuries...and selling crap alone in the markets, on busses, or in the streets. They don´t stop for weekends and can´t leave on December 16th. I think about that and really feel powerless.
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Home Again, Home Again
So, my adventures as a super tourist have come to an end; it´s back to the markets for 8 more weeks! Last night, I was so excited to finally return to sleeping in what I consider my own bed. As frustrating as work can be sometimes, I missed the kids so much and couldn´t wait to get back this morning. I was super lucky to have experienced a "mid-term" of sorts to re-organize and rejuvinate.
Being away made me realize just how acclimated to Quito and my house and my work I have become. This really feels like a permanent life. Unexpectedly, when we landed on the mainland, my first thought was "I´m home." In a way, being here feels like less of an adventure now. But I guess that just means I´m comfortable, and that´s a good thing.
Being away made me realize just how acclimated to Quito and my house and my work I have become. This really feels like a permanent life. Unexpectedly, when we landed on the mainland, my first thought was "I´m home." In a way, being here feels like less of an adventure now. But I guess that just means I´m comfortable, and that´s a good thing.
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Fotos de la Isla Bartolome
Today was mostly about gorgeous (and arguably Martian-like) landscapes on an island that is only 350,000 years old (virtually nothing speaking geologically, according to our guide; the oldest Galapagos island is 5 million). We climbed 367 stairs to a high point on the island and the views on the way were absolutely breathtaking. There was very little wildlife, but we did finally see some Galapagos penguins in the water and on the rocks--the 2nd smallest species in the world and the only one that ever crosses into the northern hemisphere!
Some Beautiful Landscapes
Bartolome...or Mars?
A Galapagos Penguin! Possibly one of the cutest animals I have ever seen in real life.
The Frigate Bird: called the Galapagos pirate because it steals everyone's booty. Mean.
Some Beautiful Landscapes
Bartolome...or Mars?
A Galapagos Penguin! Possibly one of the cutest animals I have ever seen in real life.
The Frigate Bird: called the Galapagos pirate because it steals everyone's booty. Mean.
Friday, October 8, 2010
More Galapagos Photos
The fauna of Isla Plaza Sur!
Swallow Tail Gull: an endemic species of the Galapagos.
Marine Iguana: quite exceptional as far as iguanas go. It can swim. :)
Sea Lion and Baby
Land Iguana
Sally Lightfoot Crab: apparently, they have no predators on the Galapagos once they're fully grown. I can't understand why...they look tasty to me....
...and a pelican.
Swallow Tail Gull: an endemic species of the Galapagos.
Marine Iguana: quite exceptional as far as iguanas go. It can swim. :)
Sea Lion and Baby
Land Iguana
Sally Lightfoot Crab: apparently, they have no predators on the Galapagos once they're fully grown. I can't understand why...they look tasty to me....
...and a pelican.
Thursday, October 7, 2010
I Have a Feeling We're Not in Quito Anymore.
Yesterday morning (after waking up at 5:30 am, which is 4:30 Galapagos time!) my parents and I flew into Baltra, one of the three Galapagos Islands with an airport. I'm not saying that I was expecting to fly into paradise or anything, but I was definitely surprised when the plane landed and we were surrounded by miles of dry, red dirt spattered with seemingly dead cacti. However, as soon I stepped off the plane and could breathe in the warm, clean air, I decided it didn't really matter.
We met up with a tour group and hopped on a bus to the coast of Baltra. As we turned a corner, I saw the turquoise water for the first time and within two seconds my eyes were fixed on a sea turtle--my first sighting ever! After ten minutes I already had goosebumps. I knew we were truly somewhere special.
We took a very short boat ride to Santa Cruz, where our hotel is located. On Santa Cruz we saw two huge craters as well as a ginormous lava tunnel formed by volcanos--a day full of unique landscapes. We also walked through a giant tortoise farm, where I was super thrilled to finally see some wildlife! I definitely regretted wearing sandals, however, because tortoise poop was massive and abundant. Just like they were!
We drove from one coast to the other over the course of the day and ultimately ended up at the hotel. I was definitely expecting to feel like I was in a different country than I had been for the last two months, but the streets of the town on Santa Cruz looked almost identical to those of the smaller Ecuadorian cities I've visited. It just hadn't occurred to me that many Galapagos residents might share a lifestyle with people on the mainland: the same food, same cell phone providers, same marketing techniques, same Ecuadorian flag-color grocery bags. It surprised me, but I knew that each island was supposed to have its own "personality," and that we would soon see so much more.
I could not have been more right. Today, I truly felt like I took a 2-hour boat ride to another planet instead of just another island. We inched our way to the coastline of Isla Santa Fe on a small water taxi that Galapagos residents call pangas, where the sand was white and the sea lions slumbered...in a colony of a hundred. Although they barked like dogs with whooping cough, I very much wanted to crawl right under their flippers and take a nap, too! But I guess the second best thing was being awake to watch them snuggle, swim, fight, and play.
We explored the rest of the island and saw the Santa Fe land iguana, a reptile that is not found anywhere else in the world, as well as the Blue-Footed Booby, one of the most famous birds on the Galapagos. I really can't believe I have now seen one in real life! Finches, crabs and lizards were also all over the island. Most of the animals couldn't have cared less that we were there--even the sea turtles, baby sea lions and white-tipped shark we encountered in the water when we swam. It was amazing!
To call this island "beautiful" would be an insult. I really don't think there are words to describe it, this gem in the middle of the ocean where wildlife doesn't have to be threatened by anything. Then again, I guess I should say "gems," since there are 18 of them. And we'll see another just as incredible tomorrow.
I feel pretty helpless being spoken to in English by locals giving tours or serving us food. Sometimes I feel so spoiled for being here that it's almost hard to think about anything else, but I am trying so hard to get over it because I know this is something I will probably never do again, and I want to soak up everything. It really is hard to believe that I am where I am, seeing what I'm seeing!
We met up with a tour group and hopped on a bus to the coast of Baltra. As we turned a corner, I saw the turquoise water for the first time and within two seconds my eyes were fixed on a sea turtle--my first sighting ever! After ten minutes I already had goosebumps. I knew we were truly somewhere special.
We took a very short boat ride to Santa Cruz, where our hotel is located. On Santa Cruz we saw two huge craters as well as a ginormous lava tunnel formed by volcanos--a day full of unique landscapes. We also walked through a giant tortoise farm, where I was super thrilled to finally see some wildlife! I definitely regretted wearing sandals, however, because tortoise poop was massive and abundant. Just like they were!
We drove from one coast to the other over the course of the day and ultimately ended up at the hotel. I was definitely expecting to feel like I was in a different country than I had been for the last two months, but the streets of the town on Santa Cruz looked almost identical to those of the smaller Ecuadorian cities I've visited. It just hadn't occurred to me that many Galapagos residents might share a lifestyle with people on the mainland: the same food, same cell phone providers, same marketing techniques, same Ecuadorian flag-color grocery bags. It surprised me, but I knew that each island was supposed to have its own "personality," and that we would soon see so much more.
I could not have been more right. Today, I truly felt like I took a 2-hour boat ride to another planet instead of just another island. We inched our way to the coastline of Isla Santa Fe on a small water taxi that Galapagos residents call pangas, where the sand was white and the sea lions slumbered...in a colony of a hundred. Although they barked like dogs with whooping cough, I very much wanted to crawl right under their flippers and take a nap, too! But I guess the second best thing was being awake to watch them snuggle, swim, fight, and play.
We explored the rest of the island and saw the Santa Fe land iguana, a reptile that is not found anywhere else in the world, as well as the Blue-Footed Booby, one of the most famous birds on the Galapagos. I really can't believe I have now seen one in real life! Finches, crabs and lizards were also all over the island. Most of the animals couldn't have cared less that we were there--even the sea turtles, baby sea lions and white-tipped shark we encountered in the water when we swam. It was amazing!
To call this island "beautiful" would be an insult. I really don't think there are words to describe it, this gem in the middle of the ocean where wildlife doesn't have to be threatened by anything. Then again, I guess I should say "gems," since there are 18 of them. And we'll see another just as incredible tomorrow.
I feel pretty helpless being spoken to in English by locals giving tours or serving us food. Sometimes I feel so spoiled for being here that it's almost hard to think about anything else, but I am trying so hard to get over it because I know this is something I will probably never do again, and I want to soak up everything. It really is hard to believe that I am where I am, seeing what I'm seeing!
Monday, October 4, 2010
Where's my Hawaiian Shirt? And my Hat?
It's been interesting showing my parents around the city for the past few days. Sometimes it's surreal to see them in my new world, where I've spent the last 7 weeks creating a life away from them, but I'm excited to have the chance to show it off. It's also been fun to do all the touristy things in Quito that I had yet to really consider: the TeleferiQo (pictured below), the Panecillo (a famous statue of the Virgin Mary--with wings--on the top of a hill, from which there is a very nice view), seeing the inside of the beautiful Basilica, etc. Although I have lived here for a while already, I rarely think to sightsee 15 minutes from my house.
And I am finally able to post pictures to the blog (for now)-- I'm on my own computer for the first time since being here because we're in a hotel with WiFi!
We had a really great view of the entire city after riding the TeleferiQo, "Quito's loftiest tourist attraction," according to my mom's guidebook, to an altitude of 4,100 meters (almost 3 miles above sea level!). You can see the actual TeleferiQo in the background on the right. Fun fact: it hailed on us while we were up there!
Tomorrow, my parents come to work with me. On Wednesday, we are off to the Galapagos! For some unexplainable reason, I can't wait to be back in the airport. Oh, yeah...and to see the marine iguanas and blue-footed boobies :).
And I am finally able to post pictures to the blog (for now)-- I'm on my own computer for the first time since being here because we're in a hotel with WiFi!
We had a really great view of the entire city after riding the TeleferiQo, "Quito's loftiest tourist attraction," according to my mom's guidebook, to an altitude of 4,100 meters (almost 3 miles above sea level!). You can see the actual TeleferiQo in the background on the right. Fun fact: it hailed on us while we were up there!
Tomorrow, my parents come to work with me. On Wednesday, we are off to the Galapagos! For some unexplainable reason, I can't wait to be back in the airport. Oh, yeah...and to see the marine iguanas and blue-footed boobies :).
Friday, October 1, 2010
Beach Bums and Coup d´Etats
Our experience in Canoa ended up having much less to do with soaking up the sun and much more to do with avoiding being permanently sucked into one vortex of a beach town.
Canoa has a population of only 6,000 people, and to us it felt even tinier than that. We would, per usual in this country, have local boys approach us and hit on us unabashedly, but the difference in Canoa was that we would see these same boys everywhere. They all led a lifestyle that somehow allowed them to be free to hang out and flirt all day, every day. They learned where we were staying. We began to believe that Canoa was a town full of people with no ambition whatsoever, and for me personally, the trip became so much aout avoiding frustrating situations with horny Ecuadorian boys that I often forgot that it was supposed to be a vacation. Unlike many of my friends, I, unfortunately, have zero tolerance for the cross-cultural love game that we ran (or, rather, run) into virtually every day. Some girls really play into it, which actually makes them consider staying! It´s really that intense, as I have seen it first hand.
Aside from this, we met so many Americans who had come to Canoa for vacation and either a) gone home, sold everything, packed up their life in the states and come back to this surfer town permanently, or b) never left at all. I felt like I should have been making a movie when I talked with some of these people. Walker, from Seattle, is a 27-year-old college dropout who plays online poker to pay for his virtually indefinite travels. Lenn, a divorced father of 3 grown boys, abandoned his Kentucky life after a vacation in Canoa for his own recently purchased internet cafe and beachside restaurant. He knows that, due to a new highway being built from Quito to Canoa, that the beachtown will soon be way less of a secluded getaway and way more of a flashy tourist attraction. Monetarily speaking, his genius plan is to ride that wave to the top without a hint of shame. Lenn loves himself.
By far the most interesting (and arguably the only inspiring) person that we met in Canoa was a man that we called Tiki Barber--only beause he looked like Tiki Barber--and the name totally stuck. We met him one night early in our trip and from the beginning, my friends and I all agreed that we felt really great vibes from this guy. But it was for some abstract reason that we couldn´t exactly pinpoint. He probably had the most unique perspective on life that I have ever heard, and I would really like to share his ideas after I process them...and remember them all. There will definitely be a Tiki Barber blog post sometime in the near future.
I also just have to throw out there that Canoa is home to probably the best food I have ever eaten in my life. We had phenomenal shrimp or fish dinners for $3-$5, and the veggie food at some of the specialty restaurants was to die for. I think the thing that would keep me in Canoa forever wouldn´t be the laid back, secluded nature of the place, but the incredible cuisine.
After an extremely surprising five days, Lisa and I arrived back in Quito at about 4 am Thursday morning (Katie continued travelling because she´s done at UBECI). We came back at the perfect time, we discovered later-- little did we know that the Ecuadorian government would "teeter on the edge of collapse" later that morning. As foreigners, my fellow volunteers and I were removed from the situation almost immediately. We went to work yesterday morning and, as soon as the staff found out what was wrong, we were "evacuated" to Santa Isavel, another UBECI project area outside of Quito. There we stayed, confused and completely uninformed, until about 2 pm when we could find a bus to take us back into Quito. We were basically told not to leave our houses all night.
As the entire police force went on strike, Ecuadorian and Columbian citizens took advantage of the opportunity and robbed several banks, as well as committed other crimes, throughout Quito and Quayaquil. Several members of the police force found President Rafael Correa in the hospital--where he had already been for some kind of knee surgery--and teargassed him. The air force took over the airport and wouldn´t let any traffic in our out until about 5:30 last night. There were barely any busses or taxis and the streets in some areas we basically deserted. Good times! The UBECI staff tells us that this kind of thing is fairly regular in Ecuador (the last few presidents have had similar issues with attempting to be "overthrown"). I certainly didn´t feel like I was in danger yesterday, and things seem to be improving today, although school was cancelled in a lot of places and we´re not working today either. My host family is very happy that the president didn´t back down. People here are very much in favor of the reduction of police and other government officials´ bonuses and say that Correa is one of the least corrupt presidents yet. So...I suppose we´ll see how everything unfolds.
The airport has reopened, so my parents are coming into town tonight as planned. We´ll see if they can leave the hotel this weekend...!
Canoa has a population of only 6,000 people, and to us it felt even tinier than that. We would, per usual in this country, have local boys approach us and hit on us unabashedly, but the difference in Canoa was that we would see these same boys everywhere. They all led a lifestyle that somehow allowed them to be free to hang out and flirt all day, every day. They learned where we were staying. We began to believe that Canoa was a town full of people with no ambition whatsoever, and for me personally, the trip became so much aout avoiding frustrating situations with horny Ecuadorian boys that I often forgot that it was supposed to be a vacation. Unlike many of my friends, I, unfortunately, have zero tolerance for the cross-cultural love game that we ran (or, rather, run) into virtually every day. Some girls really play into it, which actually makes them consider staying! It´s really that intense, as I have seen it first hand.
Aside from this, we met so many Americans who had come to Canoa for vacation and either a) gone home, sold everything, packed up their life in the states and come back to this surfer town permanently, or b) never left at all. I felt like I should have been making a movie when I talked with some of these people. Walker, from Seattle, is a 27-year-old college dropout who plays online poker to pay for his virtually indefinite travels. Lenn, a divorced father of 3 grown boys, abandoned his Kentucky life after a vacation in Canoa for his own recently purchased internet cafe and beachside restaurant. He knows that, due to a new highway being built from Quito to Canoa, that the beachtown will soon be way less of a secluded getaway and way more of a flashy tourist attraction. Monetarily speaking, his genius plan is to ride that wave to the top without a hint of shame. Lenn loves himself.
By far the most interesting (and arguably the only inspiring) person that we met in Canoa was a man that we called Tiki Barber--only beause he looked like Tiki Barber--and the name totally stuck. We met him one night early in our trip and from the beginning, my friends and I all agreed that we felt really great vibes from this guy. But it was for some abstract reason that we couldn´t exactly pinpoint. He probably had the most unique perspective on life that I have ever heard, and I would really like to share his ideas after I process them...and remember them all. There will definitely be a Tiki Barber blog post sometime in the near future.
I also just have to throw out there that Canoa is home to probably the best food I have ever eaten in my life. We had phenomenal shrimp or fish dinners for $3-$5, and the veggie food at some of the specialty restaurants was to die for. I think the thing that would keep me in Canoa forever wouldn´t be the laid back, secluded nature of the place, but the incredible cuisine.
After an extremely surprising five days, Lisa and I arrived back in Quito at about 4 am Thursday morning (Katie continued travelling because she´s done at UBECI). We came back at the perfect time, we discovered later-- little did we know that the Ecuadorian government would "teeter on the edge of collapse" later that morning. As foreigners, my fellow volunteers and I were removed from the situation almost immediately. We went to work yesterday morning and, as soon as the staff found out what was wrong, we were "evacuated" to Santa Isavel, another UBECI project area outside of Quito. There we stayed, confused and completely uninformed, until about 2 pm when we could find a bus to take us back into Quito. We were basically told not to leave our houses all night.
As the entire police force went on strike, Ecuadorian and Columbian citizens took advantage of the opportunity and robbed several banks, as well as committed other crimes, throughout Quito and Quayaquil. Several members of the police force found President Rafael Correa in the hospital--where he had already been for some kind of knee surgery--and teargassed him. The air force took over the airport and wouldn´t let any traffic in our out until about 5:30 last night. There were barely any busses or taxis and the streets in some areas we basically deserted. Good times! The UBECI staff tells us that this kind of thing is fairly regular in Ecuador (the last few presidents have had similar issues with attempting to be "overthrown"). I certainly didn´t feel like I was in danger yesterday, and things seem to be improving today, although school was cancelled in a lot of places and we´re not working today either. My host family is very happy that the president didn´t back down. People here are very much in favor of the reduction of police and other government officials´ bonuses and say that Correa is one of the least corrupt presidents yet. So...I suppose we´ll see how everything unfolds.
The airport has reopened, so my parents are coming into town tonight as planned. We´ll see if they can leave the hotel this weekend...!
Sunday, September 26, 2010
¡La Costa!
Enjoying Ecuador´s coast right now! Lisa, Katie and I are in a little town called Canoa, a 7-hour bus ride outside of our beloved Quito. It is like a dream-- not only because it is beautiful, virtually bus exhaust-free, and we have a $6/night hostel with an ocean view, but also because we have no door on our bathroom...a stressful sueño I´ve definitely had a few times before.
It´s so nice to just be able to relax in the sun (it´s actually warm here and it hasn´t rained!), wake up whenever I feel like it, eat meals whenever I´m hungry and not have to work around someone else´s schedule. I really like my host family, where I live, and what I do in Quito, but it´s just so fantastic to get a break from the semi-micro-managed life of a volunteer in a homestay. We´re here until Wednesday--a super long vacation! In a few days we´re going to do a day tour of an organic farm, called Rio Muchacho, here in Canoa. If it ends up looking worthwhile, I may try to volunteer there for a little when I´m done at UBECI (I have a few weeks between the end of my work and my flight home). But for now, I´ll just enjoy the breeze and the salty smell of the sea.
I swear I actually do work sometimes in Ecuador....
It´s so nice to just be able to relax in the sun (it´s actually warm here and it hasn´t rained!), wake up whenever I feel like it, eat meals whenever I´m hungry and not have to work around someone else´s schedule. I really like my host family, where I live, and what I do in Quito, but it´s just so fantastic to get a break from the semi-micro-managed life of a volunteer in a homestay. We´re here until Wednesday--a super long vacation! In a few days we´re going to do a day tour of an organic farm, called Rio Muchacho, here in Canoa. If it ends up looking worthwhile, I may try to volunteer there for a little when I´m done at UBECI (I have a few weeks between the end of my work and my flight home). But for now, I´ll just enjoy the breeze and the salty smell of the sea.
I swear I actually do work sometimes in Ecuador....
Friday, September 24, 2010
Quick Update...and Top 5 Quito Oddities
Everything is going pretty well here. We´ve got some new volunteers, which is definitely refreshing and keeps the work and my social life a bit more dynamic. A lot of questions I had about the organization were answered this week when Monica, one of the "jefas," called a big meeting and talked to all of us about UBECI´s mission, responsibilities, and a lot of work that is done by staff behind the scenes. I and a lot of the other vols feel much better about what we are doing.
My friend Lisa--also on a gap year--and I talked to Monica about what more we could do to help the organization. So...pretty soon, the two of us will be taking on a new, long-term project: writing the first ever extensive underground guide to being an UBECI volunteer. Monica is aware that a lot of what UBECI does is unclear to the volunteers--that was definitely my biggest issue in my first few weeks. But hopefully in this guide we´ll be able to go in depth about UBECI´s programs as well as what to ACTUALLY expect when you get to Quito in terms of food, money, people, safety, etc. Writing the guide is something we´re both super excited about doing, and I think it will actually help the organization a lot if volunteers are better informed before they arrive. We´ll see!
I realized that I haven´t been talking much about Quito itself in these updates. So, I´ve decided to give you all a little taste of what I´m experiencing by compiling a list of the Top 5 strangest things that can be seen in Quito--things that one would never see in Northern Virginia. Be warned: some of these may make you sad. Or want to throw up...?
5- Whole pigs.
Everywhere. There are cooked, whole pigs on every street corner in many places. Some of them aren´t even cooked, but are hanging on a hook ready to be shaved. Pretty crazy to see on a regular basis. Sometimes I say hi to them because you can still see their faces.
4- People crying...a lot.
Three times so far, I have seen women walking down the street with other women bawling and pouring their heart out. Super dramatically. Also, there is very frequently live music in restaurants, and twice there have been lyrics about love that have left people in tears. I actually kind of like the music thing...but it´s just like, what??
3- School getting out at 8 pm.
The system here is super different than in the US. Kids go to school either in the morning or the afternoon for 3 or 4 hours. It´s just so ridiculous to see young kids in their school uniforms coming home, like, in the middle of the night. And by the middle of the night, I mean when I am just getting ready to go out in the evening. But still...it´s not like there are extracurriculars or anything, really, so there´s no reason they´d stay after school is over. I just can´t imagine starting school at 3 or 4 in the afternoon, which is what I have deduced that some kids do.
2- Children working...
Obviously. But I had to include it because it is definitely a super major difference between Arlington and Ecuador. Kids come onto the busses with apples, oranges, caramels, chocolate, ice cream, whatever, and look at you with their sad puppy dog eyes, and it sucks. A friend of mine says she saw a little girl hop of the bus in the afternoon, throw her backpack on the ground, then immediately pick up a bunch of mandarines and run back onto the next bus. Ahhhhh I hate it so much.
1- People relieving themselves in the street.
I can´t tell you how many times I have seen people peeing on the grass or by a tree. I have also see two people do #2 in public. On the sidewalk. This is something about Quito that I definitely won´t miss. I almost didn´t even include this one but it just had to be number 1...because who does that?! In the words of my friend, Katie: "I don´t think I have ever wanted to cry and vomit at the same time."
So it´s not exactly beautiful all the time. But it´s definitely exciting! Don´t get me wrong, a lot of what I see and do is pretty normal for me...just not everything. Who wants to come to Quito?!
My friend Lisa--also on a gap year--and I talked to Monica about what more we could do to help the organization. So...pretty soon, the two of us will be taking on a new, long-term project: writing the first ever extensive underground guide to being an UBECI volunteer. Monica is aware that a lot of what UBECI does is unclear to the volunteers--that was definitely my biggest issue in my first few weeks. But hopefully in this guide we´ll be able to go in depth about UBECI´s programs as well as what to ACTUALLY expect when you get to Quito in terms of food, money, people, safety, etc. Writing the guide is something we´re both super excited about doing, and I think it will actually help the organization a lot if volunteers are better informed before they arrive. We´ll see!
I realized that I haven´t been talking much about Quito itself in these updates. So, I´ve decided to give you all a little taste of what I´m experiencing by compiling a list of the Top 5 strangest things that can be seen in Quito--things that one would never see in Northern Virginia. Be warned: some of these may make you sad. Or want to throw up...?
5- Whole pigs.
Everywhere. There are cooked, whole pigs on every street corner in many places. Some of them aren´t even cooked, but are hanging on a hook ready to be shaved. Pretty crazy to see on a regular basis. Sometimes I say hi to them because you can still see their faces.
4- People crying...a lot.
Three times so far, I have seen women walking down the street with other women bawling and pouring their heart out. Super dramatically. Also, there is very frequently live music in restaurants, and twice there have been lyrics about love that have left people in tears. I actually kind of like the music thing...but it´s just like, what??
3- School getting out at 8 pm.
The system here is super different than in the US. Kids go to school either in the morning or the afternoon for 3 or 4 hours. It´s just so ridiculous to see young kids in their school uniforms coming home, like, in the middle of the night. And by the middle of the night, I mean when I am just getting ready to go out in the evening. But still...it´s not like there are extracurriculars or anything, really, so there´s no reason they´d stay after school is over. I just can´t imagine starting school at 3 or 4 in the afternoon, which is what I have deduced that some kids do.
2- Children working...
Obviously. But I had to include it because it is definitely a super major difference between Arlington and Ecuador. Kids come onto the busses with apples, oranges, caramels, chocolate, ice cream, whatever, and look at you with their sad puppy dog eyes, and it sucks. A friend of mine says she saw a little girl hop of the bus in the afternoon, throw her backpack on the ground, then immediately pick up a bunch of mandarines and run back onto the next bus. Ahhhhh I hate it so much.
1- People relieving themselves in the street.
I can´t tell you how many times I have seen people peeing on the grass or by a tree. I have also see two people do #2 in public. On the sidewalk. This is something about Quito that I definitely won´t miss. I almost didn´t even include this one but it just had to be number 1...because who does that?! In the words of my friend, Katie: "I don´t think I have ever wanted to cry and vomit at the same time."
So it´s not exactly beautiful all the time. But it´s definitely exciting! Don´t get me wrong, a lot of what I see and do is pretty normal for me...just not everything. Who wants to come to Quito?!
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Beautiful Landscapes, New Ideas and Positive Change
So..a LOT has happened since my last update! My friends Lisa and Katie and I passed a long weekend in Baños, about 3 hours south of Quito. What a beautiful place. Nestled within some of the most gorgeous and lush mountains I have ever seen, it is well-known (I believe) for its waterfalls and hot water springs. For me, not only was it by far the most fun I´ve had here in Ecuador, but also full of learning and relevant epiphanies.
This is definitely going to seem pretty random, but it´s definitely something that I will not forget. As I´ve said before, one of the most incredible things about being here for me is meeting people from all over the world. On Saturday night, for the first time in my life, I met and had a conversation with a group of people who live in Israel. Of course, we immediately got into conversation about politics...and the Israeli impression of Americans and vice versa, their obligatory enlistment in the army, the war on terror. Our conversation kept returning to the same conclusion: things can´t be judged from the outside looking in. You can´t truly understand something if you don´t experience it. I recalled being in Austria a few years ago and told the Israelis about how someone there told me that people in the area were celebrating when they heard that the Twin Towers had been attacked. One of the guys replied, "well, you know what we were thinking? We were thinking, ´finally you all understand how we feel.´" Always threatened, never sure your country or your life is safe. That made me so sad. We realized later that it was actually September 11th. Wack.
The next morning, Lisa, Katie and I took a tour and saw about a billion different waterfalls around Baños. They really were beautiful and the weather was perfect. Little did we know that at the second waterfall, we would be given the opportunity to jump off a bridge and suspend ourselves over a river (called bridge jumping)! Katie and I immediately refused, but it was something Lisa had really wanted to do. Once she officially agreed to it, the guide explained that if we were interested, two people could attach together and jump at the same time. Katie and I did NOT change our minds. But the guide kept insisting...and Lisa turned to me and said "Caitlin, if you don´t do this now, you´ll regret it as soon as you leave." And I immediately agreed to do it. She was so right. I didn´t have any time to reconsider, either, because they began strapping me up as soon as I said the word.
I could never have prepared myself for the sensation of a 90-foot free fall. Never in a million years did I think I would ever willingly do it. It was like nothing I had ever experienced before! In the split second that I jumped, I realized how I really wanted the rest of this trip to be. With risks and adventure-- no regrets. I don´t want there to be anything that I should have done or tried that I didn´t. Somehow, that moment of free fall (I´m not kidding-- I literally experienced this entire thought in less than 5 seconds) was my own personal proof that life is too short not to seize every opportunity. It all just clicked...people say it, but I never really considered it seriously. For the time being, that motto is deep inside me. Who knew that the process of deciding whether or not to bridge jump--and then actually doing it--could be such a great metaphor for a life?
All weekend, my friends and I joked about how we would never return to Quito. We loved being able to breathe without inhaling pure bus fumes, we loved the freedom, and we loved not working! (All of us were getting a little fed up with the volunteering-- it´s a lot of the same, the kids can be frustrating, and the adults can be too.) But towards the end of the weekend-- at which point we had pretty much nothing else to complain about-- we had a long conversation over dinner about people wishing their lives away and always wanting to be somewhere else or living in the moment. All three of us were/are experiencing a little homesickness for various reasons, so we have all wished at some point that that we were done here and could go back home. But what I personally took away from the conversation is that I have really got to change my thinking in some ways or I truly will not last three more months. As much as I love a lot of what I am doing here, I often find myself counting down the minutes until a market activity is over or even counting down the days until I go home. It´s hard for me not to when I´m bored or frustrated or angry. We talked about how people always say "I can´t wait til college" and then, " I can´t wait til I graduate and get a job" and then "I can´t wait until I have a baby" and just always wish they were one step further than they are. But we always wish parts of our life away that we will never get back. I won´t ever return to this time in my life. But I do get Arlington back. I get both, but I only get this for a little while, so I need to appreciate every experience for what it is. I will HAVE to leave here before I know it, at which point all I will want to do is stay.
Since coming back to Quito, I have made a concious effort to not wish for anything to be over and to put full energy into everything. I didn´t wear a watch to the markets today so that I would focus entirely on the kids. When I´m frustrated, I try to find one good thing about what I´m doing in that moment--or wait for one to come. I remember that there are little tiny things that are worth it all: like when a four-year-old who calls the color red "tomato" and doesn´t know the difference between yellow, green, and blue finally begins to understand. Or when a little girl whose homework is to fill an entire notebook paper with swirls finally does one perfectly and beams and gives you a huge hug to celebrate. Weird little things.
I´m actually pretty sure that my attitude is changing. I am getting used to the fact that this is my life; a lot of the time I don´t feel like Quito is a foreign city or like a guest in my house. I really hope things stay this way even as friends come and go.
This is definitely going to seem pretty random, but it´s definitely something that I will not forget. As I´ve said before, one of the most incredible things about being here for me is meeting people from all over the world. On Saturday night, for the first time in my life, I met and had a conversation with a group of people who live in Israel. Of course, we immediately got into conversation about politics...and the Israeli impression of Americans and vice versa, their obligatory enlistment in the army, the war on terror. Our conversation kept returning to the same conclusion: things can´t be judged from the outside looking in. You can´t truly understand something if you don´t experience it. I recalled being in Austria a few years ago and told the Israelis about how someone there told me that people in the area were celebrating when they heard that the Twin Towers had been attacked. One of the guys replied, "well, you know what we were thinking? We were thinking, ´finally you all understand how we feel.´" Always threatened, never sure your country or your life is safe. That made me so sad. We realized later that it was actually September 11th. Wack.
The next morning, Lisa, Katie and I took a tour and saw about a billion different waterfalls around Baños. They really were beautiful and the weather was perfect. Little did we know that at the second waterfall, we would be given the opportunity to jump off a bridge and suspend ourselves over a river (called bridge jumping)! Katie and I immediately refused, but it was something Lisa had really wanted to do. Once she officially agreed to it, the guide explained that if we were interested, two people could attach together and jump at the same time. Katie and I did NOT change our minds. But the guide kept insisting...and Lisa turned to me and said "Caitlin, if you don´t do this now, you´ll regret it as soon as you leave." And I immediately agreed to do it. She was so right. I didn´t have any time to reconsider, either, because they began strapping me up as soon as I said the word.
I could never have prepared myself for the sensation of a 90-foot free fall. Never in a million years did I think I would ever willingly do it. It was like nothing I had ever experienced before! In the split second that I jumped, I realized how I really wanted the rest of this trip to be. With risks and adventure-- no regrets. I don´t want there to be anything that I should have done or tried that I didn´t. Somehow, that moment of free fall (I´m not kidding-- I literally experienced this entire thought in less than 5 seconds) was my own personal proof that life is too short not to seize every opportunity. It all just clicked...people say it, but I never really considered it seriously. For the time being, that motto is deep inside me. Who knew that the process of deciding whether or not to bridge jump--and then actually doing it--could be such a great metaphor for a life?
All weekend, my friends and I joked about how we would never return to Quito. We loved being able to breathe without inhaling pure bus fumes, we loved the freedom, and we loved not working! (All of us were getting a little fed up with the volunteering-- it´s a lot of the same, the kids can be frustrating, and the adults can be too.) But towards the end of the weekend-- at which point we had pretty much nothing else to complain about-- we had a long conversation over dinner about people wishing their lives away and always wanting to be somewhere else or living in the moment. All three of us were/are experiencing a little homesickness for various reasons, so we have all wished at some point that that we were done here and could go back home. But what I personally took away from the conversation is that I have really got to change my thinking in some ways or I truly will not last three more months. As much as I love a lot of what I am doing here, I often find myself counting down the minutes until a market activity is over or even counting down the days until I go home. It´s hard for me not to when I´m bored or frustrated or angry. We talked about how people always say "I can´t wait til college" and then, " I can´t wait til I graduate and get a job" and then "I can´t wait until I have a baby" and just always wish they were one step further than they are. But we always wish parts of our life away that we will never get back. I won´t ever return to this time in my life. But I do get Arlington back. I get both, but I only get this for a little while, so I need to appreciate every experience for what it is. I will HAVE to leave here before I know it, at which point all I will want to do is stay.
Since coming back to Quito, I have made a concious effort to not wish for anything to be over and to put full energy into everything. I didn´t wear a watch to the markets today so that I would focus entirely on the kids. When I´m frustrated, I try to find one good thing about what I´m doing in that moment--or wait for one to come. I remember that there are little tiny things that are worth it all: like when a four-year-old who calls the color red "tomato" and doesn´t know the difference between yellow, green, and blue finally begins to understand. Or when a little girl whose homework is to fill an entire notebook paper with swirls finally does one perfectly and beams and gives you a huge hug to celebrate. Weird little things.
I´m actually pretty sure that my attitude is changing. I am getting used to the fact that this is my life; a lot of the time I don´t feel like Quito is a foreign city or like a guest in my house. I really hope things stay this way even as friends come and go.
Friday, September 10, 2010
On Always Being Surprised
Many Ecuadorians, I have discovered, do this thing where they´ll lead you somewhere and not tell you exactly where you´re going to end up. A few weeks ago, my host brother asked me if I wanted to go get dinner. We hopped on the bus and rode for a few minutes. He turned to me and said, "actually, we´re going to the amusement park." So we did. And last weekend, my host mom asked me if I wanted to go out with her. I said yes and met up with her. We got in a car with two of her friends (that she did not mention...) and little did I know that half an hour later I would be out dancing with 30 of her tipsy coworkers.
To be honest, though, I think the most ridiculous example of this occured last night. A few friends of mine went out and we met up with a few guys--friends of one of the volunteers--who live in Ecuador. One of them asked us if we´d like to go get a drink. We thought he was going to bring us to some typical restaurant or bar...but we followed him to this hole-in-the-wall place where the waiter was Asian (the very first Asian I have seen here). He started speaking to us in really hilarious English (which was totally startling) and said "Come with me! Back here." He disappeared behind a curtain. So we followed him...fearing death...actually, I was kind of worried he was bringing us to a strip club or something. But he led us through the kitchen and up a red-velvet, nearly vertical staircase. We climbed up, only to find a tiny room with a ceiling too low for us to stand up straight, a small table with tea cups, wine glasses and napkins, and fringy pillows to sit on. The walls were covered in tapestry and there was a big-screen TV.
Wait...are we in Asia? Possibly. Anyway, my friends and I were laughing to the point of tears. The waiter then asked us to take off our shoes. We ordered drinks...and then went to a Lady Gaga drag show.
Okay, so the drag show was not a surprise. But still.
To be honest, though, I think the most ridiculous example of this occured last night. A few friends of mine went out and we met up with a few guys--friends of one of the volunteers--who live in Ecuador. One of them asked us if we´d like to go get a drink. We thought he was going to bring us to some typical restaurant or bar...but we followed him to this hole-in-the-wall place where the waiter was Asian (the very first Asian I have seen here). He started speaking to us in really hilarious English (which was totally startling) and said "Come with me! Back here." He disappeared behind a curtain. So we followed him...fearing death...actually, I was kind of worried he was bringing us to a strip club or something. But he led us through the kitchen and up a red-velvet, nearly vertical staircase. We climbed up, only to find a tiny room with a ceiling too low for us to stand up straight, a small table with tea cups, wine glasses and napkins, and fringy pillows to sit on. The walls were covered in tapestry and there was a big-screen TV.
Wait...are we in Asia? Possibly. Anyway, my friends and I were laughing to the point of tears. The waiter then asked us to take off our shoes. We ordered drinks...and then went to a Lady Gaga drag show.
Okay, so the drag show was not a surprise. But still.
Saturday, September 4, 2010
What Are We Really Doing Here?
This is a question I have been asking myself a lot lately. A friend of mine and I have discussed it ad nauseum-- why do people volunteer, who is really benefitting, what is UBECI in particular doing that is really making a difference, etc. This conversation basically stemmed from the fact that many of us know our volunteer organization needs help, and we aren´t really sure how to get it.
UBECI has some issues, a severe lack of funds being the main one. The working staff is clearly not paid very much, since sometimes they can barely afford a $1 meal if we go out between markets. So the staff does as much work as they are paid to do, it seems. They can´t spend as much time planning as they should, which results in disorganization and "didactic" activites that don´t really teach anything.
When a friend of mine asked one of the staff members about it--about what UBECI is really doing--he replied "we give kids a place to be kids." Which is true. UBECI´s intentions are very, very good. The staff obviously wouldn´t be there if they didn´t care, since it is pretty obvious to us that their financial situation is tight. But, because we do not have the time to plan or the money for better resources, UBECI can only cater to very small children--children who are in the markets (bored, distracting to working adults) but probably aren´t actually working themselves. The people we miss are the 10-to-15-year-olds, Í think--the ones who really need a break. We actually had a brief conversation with one of the UBECI staff members about self-sufficiency and suggested that we find older youth to help us out and be leaders. For now, with the amount of people and resources we have, I think that´s all we can do.
One of UBECI´s main objectives, theoretically, is to convey the importance of education, values, and setting goals. Those things are not addressed at all by what we do. And I don´t think it´s anybody´s fault. Like I said, UBECI has crappy stuff and no money. The books we have are old and ripped, we use centimeter-long crayons and have one "didactic game": Chutes and Ladders. Personally, I feel like using supplies like this sends kids the message that these kinds of things are what they deserve.
As far as I can tell, very few people in Quito even know UBECI exists, and it relies on donations from the volunteers. It is a very, very tiny organization, but that is definitely not a reason for it not to be successful. I really think they would benefit from a sister city or partner school somewhere, or some company--locally or internationally--that can provide them with publicity and resources. And even if they can´t bring in more money through publicizing, they could certainly bring in more volunteers, which could lead to more programs and more success.
UBECI has some issues, a severe lack of funds being the main one. The working staff is clearly not paid very much, since sometimes they can barely afford a $1 meal if we go out between markets. So the staff does as much work as they are paid to do, it seems. They can´t spend as much time planning as they should, which results in disorganization and "didactic" activites that don´t really teach anything.
When a friend of mine asked one of the staff members about it--about what UBECI is really doing--he replied "we give kids a place to be kids." Which is true. UBECI´s intentions are very, very good. The staff obviously wouldn´t be there if they didn´t care, since it is pretty obvious to us that their financial situation is tight. But, because we do not have the time to plan or the money for better resources, UBECI can only cater to very small children--children who are in the markets (bored, distracting to working adults) but probably aren´t actually working themselves. The people we miss are the 10-to-15-year-olds, Í think--the ones who really need a break. We actually had a brief conversation with one of the UBECI staff members about self-sufficiency and suggested that we find older youth to help us out and be leaders. For now, with the amount of people and resources we have, I think that´s all we can do.
One of UBECI´s main objectives, theoretically, is to convey the importance of education, values, and setting goals. Those things are not addressed at all by what we do. And I don´t think it´s anybody´s fault. Like I said, UBECI has crappy stuff and no money. The books we have are old and ripped, we use centimeter-long crayons and have one "didactic game": Chutes and Ladders. Personally, I feel like using supplies like this sends kids the message that these kinds of things are what they deserve.
As far as I can tell, very few people in Quito even know UBECI exists, and it relies on donations from the volunteers. It is a very, very tiny organization, but that is definitely not a reason for it not to be successful. I really think they would benefit from a sister city or partner school somewhere, or some company--locally or internationally--that can provide them with publicity and resources. And even if they can´t bring in more money through publicizing, they could certainly bring in more volunteers, which could lead to more programs and more success.
Monday, August 30, 2010
Just...Inconvenient.
So...about 10 of the 15 volunteers we have here left this weekend. I think that by the end of my time here, I will be pretty darn good at adios-ing. I´m sure there will be new volunteers very soon, but still it feels pretty weird.
This weekend definitely had a theme of bad luck. On Friday night, we all went out and we were sharing drinks all night. A few hours later I hear someone say "Man, my throat´s been hurting SO BADLY this week." So, of course, about 3/4 of us developed a cough, sore throat, stuffy nose, etc. this weekend. I basically slept the day away yesterday. No fun! I can´t imagine that Quito pollution helps the situation very much either....
Despite the sickness, etc., a few of us volunteers and my host mom took a day trip to Otavalo on Saturday. It´s main attraction is a very famous market, supposedly one of those things you have to see before you die. We all had a good time, but I´m not sure it is all that it´s hyped up to be (none of us were very happy campers when we got there, either, because we thought it would take 2 busses and 2 hours to get there, but it actually ended up taking 5 different busses and about 3.5 hours). I only bought one thing--a pair of earrings for $1--but I had a great time watching Aude, master negotiator, bargain everything down to about half of its original price. When we got back on Saturday night, Aude and I met another friend in Mariscal (called "Gringo Landia" by many natives) and splurged on...Italian food?? No rice! No meat! No bananas! By the way: by "splurge," I mean it cost us about $4 each to eat.
I also washed all of my clothes this weekend with my pink towel. When I took the load out, almost everything I owned was covered in light pink fuzz. And I can´t get it off! So...I may or may not be walking around in fuzzy clothes...forever. The end.
This weekend definitely had a theme of bad luck. On Friday night, we all went out and we were sharing drinks all night. A few hours later I hear someone say "Man, my throat´s been hurting SO BADLY this week." So, of course, about 3/4 of us developed a cough, sore throat, stuffy nose, etc. this weekend. I basically slept the day away yesterday. No fun! I can´t imagine that Quito pollution helps the situation very much either....
Despite the sickness, etc., a few of us volunteers and my host mom took a day trip to Otavalo on Saturday. It´s main attraction is a very famous market, supposedly one of those things you have to see before you die. We all had a good time, but I´m not sure it is all that it´s hyped up to be (none of us were very happy campers when we got there, either, because we thought it would take 2 busses and 2 hours to get there, but it actually ended up taking 5 different busses and about 3.5 hours). I only bought one thing--a pair of earrings for $1--but I had a great time watching Aude, master negotiator, bargain everything down to about half of its original price. When we got back on Saturday night, Aude and I met another friend in Mariscal (called "Gringo Landia" by many natives) and splurged on...Italian food?? No rice! No meat! No bananas! By the way: by "splurge," I mean it cost us about $4 each to eat.
I also washed all of my clothes this weekend with my pink towel. When I took the load out, almost everything I owned was covered in light pink fuzz. And I can´t get it off! So...I may or may not be walking around in fuzzy clothes...forever. The end.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Viviana
It is really upsetting to see kids taking care of their siblings like mothers at 8 or 9 years old. They bring them to our activities and want to participate but most barely can because the babies start crying as soon as their older sibling is out of arm´s reach. But it´s incredible how some of them handle it and how devoted they are to their families. One girl that stands out to me in particular comes to the Wednesday morning market. Her name is Viviana and she´s 9-- her 1-year-old sister comes along, and at first Viviana can barely do anything because her sister freaks out when she isn´t holding her. Viviana sees other kids her age playing while she tries as hard as she can to entertain her sister and keep her happy. She really is such a responsible caregiver. In addition selling goods alone on busses or on the streets (which she does-- Lucy says she has seen Viviana on the bus selling chocolates alone), kids in this situation have to be a parent before they hit puberty. Viviana is expected to act like she´s 30. But then you talk to her and remember that she´s 9.
It really makes me happy to see kids like this playing-- we were finally able to win Viviana´s little sister´s trust long enough for Viviana to have some fun. I really don´t mind "babysitting" if it means kids like that actually get to be kids.
It really makes me happy to see kids like this playing-- we were finally able to win Viviana´s little sister´s trust long enough for Viviana to have some fun. I really don´t mind "babysitting" if it means kids like that actually get to be kids.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Many Firsts
Life is good. The first week is over. I´ve only gotten lost once, only been served a peanut dish once (in a restaurant, and I realized very quickly), and only had my personal space bubble burst about 829374 times. A success.
Tuesday-Friday is work, work, work, sometimes followed by salsa class-- those are the best days. I probably won´t remember any of the kids´ names next week since each day is different. After a day in the markets, it feels like I have never been dirtier. But I really love it-- we´ve been singing silly Spanish songs and having so much fun, and the kids never want to leave. I´ve also learned to love our staff-volunteer lunches between work times-- many volunteers only work in the morning and go home before lunch, so it´s been this really awesome little group and even then I´m learning (...sometimes unimportant stuff). Silly fact: just as many of us add an O to every word to make it Español, they add the suffix "-ation" (sanitation, abomination, recreation) to make it English. A few of us volunteers and Danny and Susana, the Ecuadorian UBECI staff, spent an entire lunchtime speaking Spanglish like this ("¿Donde esta la comid-ation?", "ya estoy llen-ation", "que buen-ation", etc.). It was awesome when their Spanglish phrases actually made English words, like when one of the Ecuadorians changed "Tengo sed" (I am thirsty) to "Tengo sedation." This was the day that I also shared my deep dark secret about being afraid of clogging a toilet, and now everyone on the UBECI staff thinks I´m a freak. It´s great.
On Friday night, Lucy and Aude (two other volunteers) and I took a five-hour busride to Tena, a town that lies just at the tip of the Amazon (many people call it the jungle for pansies because it´s not very far in). It was a horrible bus ride that involved smelly people virtually sitting on me, super hotness, sporadic flashing lights, a disturbing Jodie Foster movie called "The Brave One," me almost getting carsick, etc. We spent the night (my very first hostel experience), and had a pretty great tour of the jungle nearby, Selena, the next day. It was super cool to learn about all of the natural resources the jungle can provide. I had my face painted with natural dye from two different jungle plants and also ate ants. They were alive and tasted like lemon. Our tour guide also claimed that termites make a great bug repellent and smeared them all over himself to prove it (they were quite small, but still). I also ate the fruit from a cacao plant and we made chocolate from the beans! All in all, an exciting taste (literally and figuratively) of what the jungle has to offer. Although I was dreading it, the bus ride back was much more pleasant than the first. We arrived back in Quito at about midnight last night, and I slept in this morning which was heavenly. Although I still wake up like 3 times a night to dog fights, speeding motos, honking busses, etc.
This is the beginning of a very awesome four months. Sometimes I´m like, "holy shit, I´m in South America and I don´t REALLY know anyone," and I miss knowing where things are and I just miss familiarity in general. But then I get a huge hug from a little girl I met five minutes ago or dance salsa or eat ants or even hear another volunteer say "trousers" instead of "pants," and it makes me feel like the luckiest person in the world, being exposed to all of this. And I have sooooo long to soak it all in!!
Tuesday-Friday is work, work, work, sometimes followed by salsa class-- those are the best days. I probably won´t remember any of the kids´ names next week since each day is different. After a day in the markets, it feels like I have never been dirtier. But I really love it-- we´ve been singing silly Spanish songs and having so much fun, and the kids never want to leave. I´ve also learned to love our staff-volunteer lunches between work times-- many volunteers only work in the morning and go home before lunch, so it´s been this really awesome little group and even then I´m learning (...sometimes unimportant stuff). Silly fact: just as many of us add an O to every word to make it Español, they add the suffix "-ation" (sanitation, abomination, recreation) to make it English. A few of us volunteers and Danny and Susana, the Ecuadorian UBECI staff, spent an entire lunchtime speaking Spanglish like this ("¿Donde esta la comid-ation?", "ya estoy llen-ation", "que buen-ation", etc.). It was awesome when their Spanglish phrases actually made English words, like when one of the Ecuadorians changed "Tengo sed" (I am thirsty) to "Tengo sedation." This was the day that I also shared my deep dark secret about being afraid of clogging a toilet, and now everyone on the UBECI staff thinks I´m a freak. It´s great.
On Friday night, Lucy and Aude (two other volunteers) and I took a five-hour busride to Tena, a town that lies just at the tip of the Amazon (many people call it the jungle for pansies because it´s not very far in). It was a horrible bus ride that involved smelly people virtually sitting on me, super hotness, sporadic flashing lights, a disturbing Jodie Foster movie called "The Brave One," me almost getting carsick, etc. We spent the night (my very first hostel experience), and had a pretty great tour of the jungle nearby, Selena, the next day. It was super cool to learn about all of the natural resources the jungle can provide. I had my face painted with natural dye from two different jungle plants and also ate ants. They were alive and tasted like lemon. Our tour guide also claimed that termites make a great bug repellent and smeared them all over himself to prove it (they were quite small, but still). I also ate the fruit from a cacao plant and we made chocolate from the beans! All in all, an exciting taste (literally and figuratively) of what the jungle has to offer. Although I was dreading it, the bus ride back was much more pleasant than the first. We arrived back in Quito at about midnight last night, and I slept in this morning which was heavenly. Although I still wake up like 3 times a night to dog fights, speeding motos, honking busses, etc.
This is the beginning of a very awesome four months. Sometimes I´m like, "holy shit, I´m in South America and I don´t REALLY know anyone," and I miss knowing where things are and I just miss familiarity in general. But then I get a huge hug from a little girl I met five minutes ago or dance salsa or eat ants or even hear another volunteer say "trousers" instead of "pants," and it makes me feel like the luckiest person in the world, being exposed to all of this. And I have sooooo long to soak it all in!!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)